Reliable well water lives or dies by a $25–$85 part you rarely think about: the check valve. Lose it, and your system short-cycles, hammers like a freight train, and cooks your motor in months instead of years. I’ve fielded those Saturday night calls—no water, pressure gauge stuck at 0, pressure myers deep well water pump switch clicking like a metronome. In nearly a third of those cases, a failed or misplaced check valve is the root cause.
Let’s ground this in a real homeowner story. Mateo and Priya Nagar (38 and 36), a high school science teacher and ER nurse, live on 6 acres outside Pendleton, Oregon, with their kids Nisha (8) and Arjun (5). Their 220‑foot basalt well, 6-inch casing, runs a 1 HP Myers Predator Plus submersible at roughly 12 GPM with a 44‑gallon pressure tank. An older Franklin pump had died after four years—short-cycling from a leaking swing-style foot valve beat the motor and pressure switch to death. When the shower went cold last month, Mateo replaced the switch and even swapped the tank tee. No luck. The actual problem? A stuck-open downhole check valve causing backspin, water hammer, and zero pressure retention. We rebuilt the drop assembly with a proper spring-loaded check strategy matched to their Myers system, and the house has been whisper-quiet ever since.
If you’re running a Myers pump—or upgrading to one—this checklist will save you from callbacks, premature pump failures, and spiking energy bills. We’ll cover valve location, materials, spring rates, head loss, vertical lift, pressure tank placement, anti-hammer strategies, code-driven spacing, and how Myers’ Predator Plus hydraulics interact with valve selection. Along the way, I’ll call out where inferior parts and competing pump brands fall short, and why getting the check valve right makes Myers’ efficiency and longevity shine.
Here’s what we’ll unpack:
- Location rules: downhole vs top-of-well vs house-side Valve count and spacing by depth and TDH Stainless vs brass vs thermoplastic in real water chemistries Spring calibration, cracking pressure, and head loss Water hammer mitigation and backspin prevention Integrating with Myers Predator Plus curves and Pentek XE motors Pressure tank placement, drain-back, and air-charging impacts Jet vs submersible check strategies Freeze protection, pitless adapters, and floodplains Troubleshooting symptoms that scream “check valve” Code and manufacturer guidance you shouldn’t ignore Rick’s field-proven builds for 1/2 HP to 2 HP Myers systems
Let’s get your Myers water well pump running the way it was engineered to—quiet, efficient, and for the long haul.
#1. Valve Placement Fundamentals for Myers Submersibles — Downhole Check, Pitless Support, and House-Side Protection
Correct placement prevents backflow, backspin, and destructive water hammer that can ruin a motor and pummel your plumbing. Get the first check wrong, and everything downstream works harder—and dies younger.
Technically, a spring‑loaded check valve should be located as close to the pump discharge as possible to hold the column of water and prevent reverse rotation. On most Myers submersible well pump installations, the pump includes an internal check valve—good, but not enough by itself for deeper sets or long vertical runs. I recommend adding an external spring check 5–10 feet above the pump on the drop pipe. Then use a second check topside near the pitless adapter or before the pressure tank to stabilize startup and maintain line pressure. For very deep wells (250–490 feet), code or best practice may require additional valves spaced every 100 feet to cushion column weight.
Mateo and Priya’s 220‑foot set had only a tired, non-spring foot valve in a legacy install—wrong valve, wrong place. We added a stainless spring check 8 feet above the pump plus a lead-free brass spring check at the tank tee. Result: stable pressure, zero backspin, no switch chatter.
# Internal vs External: What Myers Provides vs What You Add
A Myers Predator Plus typically ships with an internal check valve designed for near-pump prevention of backflow. Add an external spring check for redundancy and to manage dynamic conditions like long drops and high TDH.
hr2hr2/# Stainless Downhole: The Workhorse Choice
Down the well, I favor stainless steel bodies and springs with polished poppets. They tolerate abrasion from the occasional sand burst and keep cracking pressures predictable.
# When Thermoplastic Is Acceptable
Short shallow sets, clean water, and budget constraints can justify a thermoplastic top check. I still won’t use them downhole on Myers installs that deserve a 10–15 year lifespan.
Bottom line: match Myers’ 300 series stainless steel pump construction with corrosion-resistant checks so the whole system ages at the same pace.
#3. Spring-Loaded vs Swing-Style — Why Spring Checks Protect Your Pentek XE Motor
Startups, shutdowns, and power hiccups punish your motor if backflow isn’t controlled. A spring-loaded check valve closes faster and more predictably than a swing-style check, preventing column backspin that can reverse-drive the pump.
Physics first: When power cuts, the standing water column tries to fall. A spring check snaps shut quickly with a defined cracking pressure (often 1–3 psi), creating a controlled seal before velocity accelerates. Swing checks rely on gravity and turbulence, close slower, and can flutter—prime conditions for water hammer and reverse torque. On a Pentek XE motor—used across many Myers water well pumps—that reverse torque stresses thrust bearings and can shorten service life.
Mateo’s system had a decades-old foot valve installed as a “check.” It leaked and closed lazily, causing hard line shock and rapid cycling. The spring checks fixed it overnight.
# Head Loss Considerations
Every valve adds head. Quality spring checks list head loss at specific flows—expect roughly 0.5–2 psi at 10–15 GPM. Plot this on your pump curve to maintain BEP operation.
hr4hr4/# Don’t Neck Down at the Valve
Maintain pipe size through the valve. A 1" check jammed in a 1‑1/4" line stacks velocity and creates noise. Step downs belong at fixtures, not at critical protection points.
# GPM Reality vs Spec Sheet Fantasy
Real homes pull 8–12 GPM continuous with spot peaks to 15–18 GPM. Size your checks for peak, not just average.
Action step: Match valve size to line size and verify head loss on the PSAM myers pump spec sheet—PSAM stocks the right valves with published curves.
#5. Depth and Spacing — How Many Check Valves for Your Myers Deep Well Water Pump
Gravity never blinks. The taller your column, the more disciplined your check strategy must be. A single check near the pump will hold water, but long columns develop momentum that can shock a single poppet.
My field-tested rules:
- Shallow sets (≤100 ft): Internal + one top-of-well spring check near the tank tee. Medium sets (100–200 ft): Internal + one external 5–10 ft above pump + one at tank tee. Deep sets (200–350 ft): Internal + external near pump + additional spring check every ~100 ft + one at tank tee. Very deep sets (350–490 ft): Internal + external near pump + spaced checks every 80–100 ft + one at tank tee; verify local code.
The Nagar system at 220 ft took three total checks: internal, one at 8 ft above pump, and one at the tank tee. It eliminated column slam on power outages and made startup gentle.
# Code and Manufacturer Guidance
Always cross-reference local code. Some jurisdictions specify a single top check only; others require downhole checks at set intervals. Myers and Pentair guidelines focus on protecting the motor from backspin and the system from hammer.
hr6hr6/li17li17/li18li18/li19li19/li20li20/# Spring Rate and Closure Speed
A slightly higher spring rate closes faster and limits backspin, at the cost of a touch more head loss. Worth it in deep wells.
# Pair with Adequate Tank Volume
Aim for 1–2 minutes of run time per cycle. A 10–12 GPM pump should see 10–20 gallons of drawdown. That preserves motor life across years.
Pro tip: If you hear hammer when power blips, your check strategy is underbuilt. Add a downhole spring check and inspect the top valve immediately.
#7. Jet Pump and Shallow Well Cases — Check and Foot Valves for Myers Jet Pump Systems
Not every property runs a submersible. For shallow wells or cistern lifts with a Myers jet pump or convertible jet pump, the valve logic flips: a functional foot valve at the end of the suction line holds prime, while a spring check near the pump protects against backflow into supply lines.
Jet pumps rely on airtight suction. One grain of sand in a sloppy foot valve can cost you prime and leave the pump cavitating at 5 AM. Use a quality lead-free brass or stainless foot valve with a screened intake, paired with a spring check on the discharge before the pressure switch and tank tee.
For farm filler lines and irrigation taps, I still prefer a second spring check just before the branch to prevent backflow contamination.
# Screened Foot Valves
Screens keep debris out of the seat. On sandy wells, add a coarse screen upstream and a torque-proof drop weight to keep the foot down.
hr8hr8/# Pitless Adapter Pairing
A quality pitless adapter keeps the lateral run tight and sanitary. Don’t stack heavy valves directly at the pitless; mount inline supports.
# Heat Tape Isn’t a Fix
Heat tape is a Band-Aid. Proper bury depth, pitless use, and indoor valve placement are the cure.
If you fight winter, design your check layout to live indoors wherever possible. Your Myers system will thank you.
#9. Integrating with Myers Predator Plus — Matching Check Valve Strategy to Pump Curves, Stages, and BEP
Myers submersibles earn their keep around 80%+ hydraulic efficiency when run near BEP. Your check valves can either help the pump live there—or drag it off target with avoidable head loss and instability.
Start with the pump curve for your model and stages, then add realistic friction: pipe, elbows, pitless, and your chosen check valves’ published losses at 10–15 GPM. Confirm that your delivery pressure (e.g., 60 psi at the house) is still met with margin. If you’re tight, step up one stage set or cut friction with smoother fittings and low-loss checks.
On the Nagars’ 1 HP, we targeted 12 GPM at ~220 feet of lift with a 40/60 switch. Two spring checks added roughly 3–4 feet of head at flow—well within the pump’s plateau. As a result, the Pentek XE motor runs cool, and cycling is minimal.
# 2-Wire vs 3-Wire Doesn’t Change the Valve Math
Whether you run a 2-wire configuration or 3-wire with control box, check valves do the same job. Protect the motor from backspin either way.
hr10hr10/hr11hr11/li21li21/li22li22/li23li23/li24li24/li25li25/# Confirm with a Night Test
Shut the house valve, watch the gauge overnight. Drop = leak at the check or upstream. Hold = house-side problem.
# Don’t Forget the Obvious
If your pitless O-ring leaks, a perfect check can still bleed. Pressure test the lateral.
Trust your ears and your gauge. A $50 valve can solve what looks like a $1,200 pump problem.
#12. Warranty, Compliance, and Total Cost — How Smart Valve Selection Unlocks Myers’ Long Life and 3-Year Coverage
Myers backs the Predator Plus Series with an industry‑leading 3‑year warranty—rare air in residential pumping. But protection assumes a correct, code-compliant install, and that includes check valve placement and type. If hammer and backspin cook your motor, you’ll wish you spent the extra $30 on a proper spring check.
Total cost of ownership isn’t just the pump. It’s electricity, switch replacements, tank failures from cycling, and emergency service when a bargain check sticks. Across a decade, I’ve seen well-designed Myers systems—stainless checks downhole, brass at the tee, correct spacing—outlast budget builds by 2–3x and cut service calls by 50%+.
For the Nagars, the move to Myers with a proper valve plan turned a four-year pump into a system I expect to see run a decade or more. That is the quiet savings you feel every morning when the shower just works.
# Energy and BEP Savings
Operating near BEP with minimal extra head can trim energy use 10–20%. Good valves pay you back every month.