A basement can go from dry to disaster in minutes. I’ve walked into too many homes where a “small” storm turned into a soaked furnace, ruined drywall, and a dehumidifier fighting a losing battle. The root cause usually isn’t the pump—it’s the pit. Undersized basins, poorly placed inlets, improper discharge height, and no room for a backup are the silent killers of sump performance. A sump system designed right will cycle smoothly, keep your foundation dry, and give a quality Myers pump the environment it needs to run at peak efficiency for years.
Meet the Abuelo-Ramírez family in western Michigan. Miguel (42), a high school math teacher, and his wife Elena (40), a nurse, live with their kids—Mateo (12) and Sofia (9)—on a half-acre outside Holland, MI. After a spring thaw, their basement flooded overnight when a budget sump pump burned out during a long cycle. The culprit: a 14" diameter bucket serving as a “pit,” a crooked check valve, and no dedicated discharge. Their prior pump (a Wayne) short-cycled itself to death because the water level rose too fast and there wasn’t enough volume to stabilize the on/off cycle. The next day, Miguel called PSAM. We sized a proper pit, specced a Myers sump pump system, and gave him a playbook he could trust.
This list is the blueprint I gave Miguel: settle on the correct pit dimensions, add the right check and discharge components, plan for backup power, wire safely, and choose a durable, high-output pump. You’ll see why Myers—backed by Pentair and supported by PSAM’s tech team—sits comfortably ahead of competitors in reliability, serviceability, and long-term cost of ownership. Each item dives into a pit-design best practice, with pro tips that prevent flooded basements and expensive callbacks. Whether you’re a rural homeowner, a spec-driven contractor, or scrambling for a same-day replacement, these steps keep water where it belongs—out of your basement.
Awards and reliability matter. Myers Pumps bring an industry-leading 3-year warranty, Made in USA build quality, and UL listed and CSA certified components into your home. With Pentair engineering behind the line, Myers keeps its focus on performance and longevity. And as PSAM’s in-house advisor, I’ve spent decades seeing which systems live up to their claims. Myers does—and then some.
Let’s build a pit that lets your sump system work smarter, not harder.
#1. Start with the Right Basin Diameter and Depth – Sizing the Pit to Match Inflow and Cycle Time
Getting the pit size right protects your pump from rapid cycling. For most homes, a basin with a minimum 18" diameter and 24"–30" depth is the baseline. Anywhere with a high water table or multiple footing drains feeding the pit benefits from a 24" diameter basin, especially when pairing with a Myers sump pump in the 1/3–1/2 HP class. More diameter equals more volume between switch points, which translates to longer, gentler run cycles.
Here’s why it matters: as water enters the basin, your float switch triggers the pump at a defined “on” level and shuts it off at a lower “off” level. The distance between those two points—your drawdown—combined with basin volume determines the actual gallons per cycle. A larger basin supports proper GPM rating utilization without hammering the motor with constant starts. With Myers’ engineered composite impellers and self-lubricating switch mechanisms (in float-equipped models), the system thrives on correct cycling.
The Abuelo-Ramírez pit was replaced with a 24" x 30" basin, giving their Myers water pump (1/2 HP, 115V) room to breathe. Flooding stopped, and the pump now sees 2–3 cycles an hour in heavy rain—not 12–15.
Targeting Cycle Times with Drawdown Math
A 24" diameter basin holds roughly 23 gallons per vertical foot. If your float has a 10" differential, that’s about 19 gallons per cycle. At 50 GPM actual discharge, you’re looking at a ~23-second run. Ideal. Keep cycles under 6 per hour during storms; more volume helps you hit that mark.
Basin Materials and Lids
Choose a basin built from corrosion resistant polyethylene with a robust gasketed lid. Solid lids reduce humidity, suppress odors, and keep debris out. A sealed, bolted lid also limits radon entry.
Where Smaller Pits Fail
A 14" bucket holds only about 8 gallons per foot. With a 6" differential, that’s barely 5 gallons per cycle—leading to constant on/off cycling that overheats motors and shortens switch life. Don’t handcuff a solid pump with a tiny pit.
Key takeaway: Start with diameter. A 24" x 30" pit is cheap insurance for a Myers pump to run at designed performance.
#2. Match Pump Capacity to Pit Geometry – Selecting 1/3–1/2 HP Myers with Proper GPM and Head
Pit size and inflow rates define the pump you need. In most basements, a 1/3 HP or 1/2 HP Myers sump pump at 115V with a 1-1/2" discharge size hits the sweet spot. You want enough capacity to evacuate the drawdown volume quickly without short-cycling. Myers’ multi-stage pump design isn’t used for sump pumps like it is for submersible well pumps, but the hydraulic engineering principles carry over: the right pump curve, stable duty, and clean flow channeling matter.
Look at the pump curve for the model you’re considering. Estimate TDH (total dynamic head) by adding vertical lift (floor to discharge height), equivalent friction loss (fittings and pipe length), and check valve drop. Most residential TDH falls between 8–15 feet. A Myers 1/2 HP unit delivering 50–60 GPM at 10 feet of head will clear a properly sized basin in 20–30 seconds during peak inflow.
Miguel’s installation settled on a Myers 1/2 HP at 115V, tied into 1-1/2" PVC. That eliminated the “catch-up” surge they suffered with the old pump.
Sizing by Inflow and Runtime
Design for 25–60 GPM depending on storm intensity, soil type, and drain tile length. Target run times around 20–40 seconds per cycle. Myers performance curves make it straightforward to match model to real-world load.
Electrical Considerations
Check amperage draw and dedicate a 15A circuit (20A if code or run-up demands). Keep wire runs short to minimize voltage drop. Frequent brownouts call for a surge protector.
Float Switch Positioning
Set the pressure switch or float to maximize drawdown without exposing the pump intake. Keep at least 3" of water above the intake screen at off-level to prevent dry run.
Key takeaway: Select a Myers model that fits your pit’s volume and head. It’s not raw horsepower; it’s the right curve.
#3. Set Inlet Elevations and Drain Tile Angles – Give Water a Clear Shot to the Pit
Drains should feed the basin, not fight it. For a slab-on-grade or basement with perimeter tile, rough-in the drain tile outlets at least 3–4" below slab level and 8–10" above the basin bottom. That keeps sediment off the pump intake while letting water fall by gravity into the pit. Avoid elbows right at the basin wall; gentle sweeps reduce turbulence and silt deposits that can clog the intake screen over time.
The Abuelo-Ramírez perimeter tile had one outlet entering 2" above slab—water backed up along the north wall. Re-setting the inlet elevation and adding a clean-out solved slow ingress and kept the basin calm.
Sediment Management
Consider a removable sediment tray or a simple gravel layer to trap fines. Myers pumps handle small particles, but controlling sediment extends bearing life.
Backflow and Odors
Seal penetrations with grommets. A sealed lid keeps the pit from becoming an odor path. It also reduces humidity on storm days when the pump is active.
Service Access
Always leave room for hand access around the pit. Don’t bury it under shelving or ductwork. I see that mistake far too often.
Key takeaway: Water must enter low, smooth, and clean. Good inlet geometry helps your Myers water pump run quieter and longer.
#4. Use a True 1-1/2" Discharge with Long-Radius Fittings – Preserve GPM and Reduce TDH
Choking a 1-1/2" pump outlet down to 1-1/4" or using tight 90s encourages friction loss, turbulence, and heat. Keep the discharge full-size, use long-radius elbows, and minimize fittings. Every 90-degree elbow can add 2–5 feet of head equivalent. Multiply that by three elbows and you’ve lost a chunk of capacity.
For Miguel’s system, we ran 1-1/2" Schedule 40 PVC, two long-radius 90s, and a straight shot to the exit. The pump’s curve stayed in its sweet spot.
Backflow Preventer and Vertical Lift
A true-swing check valve positioned within 12–18" of the pump prevents water hammer and keeps the column from draining back. Account for vertical lift to grade—most homes are 8–12 feet.
Insulate and Secure
Vibration dampers and proper strapping help reduce noise. Insulate near living areas if the run passes finished space.
Exterior Termination
Slope the last exterior section away from the house. Keep it above grade, protected from lawn equipment, and 5–10 feet from the foundation.
Key takeaway: Respect the discharge diameter and you’ll get the GPM you paid for.
#5. Choose a Sealed Lid and Gas-Tight Grommets – Safety, Cleanliness, and Radon Control
A sealed, bolted lid with gasket isn’t just neat—it’s building science. Sealed lids limit humidity, reduce odor migration, and serve as a barrier against radon infiltration from soil gases. Use factory grommets for power cords and discharge pipes to maintain a gas-tight seal.
Miguel’s old setup had an open bucket. Their dehumidifier ran nonstop. With the sealed lid in place, humidity dropped by 15% on storm days and the basement became livable again.
Cord and Switch Routing
Use a factory cable guard and strain relief to protect cords from float travel. Don’t zip-tie the float too tightly; it needs full motion.
Inspection Port
A small clear port lets you see the water level and check operation without unbolting the lid. Handy during heavy rain.
Code and Health
Some municipalities now encourage sealed pits for radon mitigation. It’s a simple upgrade with outsized benefits.
Key takeaway: A sealed pit is cleaner, safer, and easier on the equipment.
#6. Install a Quality Check Valve and Quiet Plumbing – Stop Water Hammer Before It Starts
A check valve that slams shut will announce every cycle across the house. Choose a clear-bodied, serviceable check with a soft seat. Mount it vertically, and add a short rubber coupling to absorb shock. Quiet installations extend pump life and keep everyone sane.
Miguel went from an old spring-loaded check to a soft-seated true-swing. The “thunk” disappeared, and the discharge column stayed full.
Anti-Vibration Practices
Use flexible couplings at the pump discharge and mid-run if resonance is an issue. Avoid copper-to-PVC transitions unless mechanically isolated.
Check Valve Maintenance
Inspect annually. Debris can hang a flapper, causing backflow or restriction. With a clear valve, you can see problems fast.
Water Hammer Diagnostics
If you hear banging when the pump shuts off, move the check closer to the pump or add a vertical riser before the first elbow.
Key takeaway: A quiet system is a healthy system; treat the check valve as a performance component, not an afterthought.
#7. Add a Dedicated Backup Pump and Battery – Redundancy for Storm-Plus-Outage Events
Storms love to knock out power when sump demand peaks. A battery backup unit paired with your primary Myers sump pump keeps water moving when the grid goes dark. Place the backup pump slightly higher than the primary, so it only runs when needed. Use a dedicated discharge or a wye with a backflow device to isolate flows.
When a thunderstorm took down power last June, the Abuelo-Ramírez family stayed dry. Their backup carried the load for four hours, buying time until power returned.
Battery Capacity
Choose deep-cycle AGM with a smart charger. The larger the basin and lower the inflow, the longer your runtime. Test quarterly.
Separate Float Switch
Set the backup float 1–2" above the primary’s on-level. That ensures priority goes to the primary pump under normal operation.
Alarm and App Alerts
Add an audible alarm and consider a Wi-Fi controller. Peace of mind is worth more than a guess.
Key takeaway: Power fails. Your sump shouldn’t. Build in redundancy.
#8. Elevate the Pump, Manage Sediment, and Keep the Intake Clear – Protect the Motor and Impeller
Sump bottoms collect fines. A pump sitting directly on the bottom ingests grit that chews through impellers and seals. Use a 2–3" riser base to elevate the pump and keep the intake screen clear. Myers sump pumps handle small amounts of grit, but as with any centrifugal pump, less is better.
Miguel’s basin had visible silt the first month after heavy rain. Elevating the pump and adding a cleanable tray cut turbidity and smoothed operation.
Intake Health
Inspect quarterly. If you see slime or scale, rinse the intake and check the float movement. A stuck float is a flood risk.
Staggered Inlet Screens
If your drain tile brings in sand, install a barrier fabric in the tile, not at the pit. Restricting at the pit creates a dam upstream.
Service Loop
Leave slack in the power cord and discharge to lift the pump for cleaning without cutting pipe.
Key takeaway: Keep the point of entry clean and you’ll save bearings, seals, and headaches.
#9. Electrical and Control: Dedicated Circuit, Surge Protection, and Smart Switching – Reliability Under Load
A sump pump is a mission-critical appliance. Give it a dedicated 15A (or 20A) GFCI-protected circuit, a quality surge protector, and clean terminations. Use a professional-grade float or integrated switch with ample rating. For single-phase motor models, verify voltage at the receptacle—low voltage under load kills motors over time.
The Abuelo-Ramírez outlet delivered a steady 118–120V under start. No more nuisance trips or warm cords after we upgraded the receptacle and breaker.
Wire Management
Route cords away from the float path and secure them to a mounting bracket or lid clip. Loose cords snag floats.
Switch Type
Vertical floats are compact but can be susceptible to fouling in narrow pits. Tethered floats require space but are reliable when set correctly.
Testing Protocol
Cycle-test monthly. Pour water into the pit and watch the on/off transitions. Listen for the check valve and watch for vibration.
Key takeaway: Electrical sloppiness is the easiest way to ruin a good pump. Be meticulous.
#10. Discharge to Daylight with Freeze Protection – Keep Water Moving Year-Round
Exterior discharge lines freeze in cold climates unless you think ahead. Use a freeze-resistant termination with a slight down-slope and an air gap. In northern zones, consider a dual-path: a gravity drain-to-daylight and a bypass to an interior drain when temps drop.
Miguel added a freeze guard fitting at the exterior wall. Last January’s polar vortex? No backup into the pit and no recirculation.
Air Gap and Code
Most jurisdictions want an air gap or backflow prevention when tying to storm sewer. When in doubt, discharge to grade away from the house.
Bury Depth
If you bury the line, go below frost line and add clean-outs. Many homeowners skip clean-outs—then can’t clear a blockage mid-storm.
Splash Block and Erosion
Use a splash block or riprap to prevent washouts where the pipe exits.
Key takeaway: Your pump can’t fight physics. Give the discharge a winter-proof path.
#11. Choose Myers for Build Quality, Warranty, and Real-World Longevity – Stainless Components, Pentair Engineering, PSAM Support
Materials matter. Myers sump pumps are designed with the same rigor we lean on for Myers water well pumps and Myers submersible well pump lines. The brand’s broader portfolio—featuring 300 series stainless steel components in its Predator Plus well series and Teflon-impregnated wear surfaces—reflects a commitment to life-cycle durability. Add thermal overload protection and smart sealing, and you’ve got a sump unit that just runs.
At PSAM, our Myers pump dealers and Myers pump distributors network means you get fast parts, clear pump curve data, and technical answers fast. For the Abuelo-Ramírez family, that translated into a one-and-done install and the confidence that service is a phone call away.
Warranty That Actually Helps
Myers’ 3-year warranty outpaces the industry’s 1–2 years. When components fail early (rare), you’re covered. That reduces total ownership cost meaningfully.
Performance Consistency
Whether it’s a Myers 1 2 HP well pump or a basement sump, you get repeatable performance at specified BEP (best efficiency point). That engineering culture shows up at every duty point.
PSAM Pro Tips
We stock fittings, check valve, tank tee assemblies for well systems, and everything you need for full-stack water management. One order, quick ship.
Key takeaway: Pair sound pit design with Myers’ build and warranty, and you won’t be shopping again anytime soon.
#12. Competitor Reality Check – Why Myers Sump and Water Solutions Win Over Time
Let’s talk about the elephant in the basement: not all pumps or pits are created equal. When you design around longevity, you choose engineering that forgives real-world conditions.
Detailed comparison 1: From a materials and motor standpoint, Myers leans on the same design DNA used in its Predator Plus Series: corrosion-resistant housings, careful sealing, and attention to hydraulic efficiency. Competitors like Goulds often rely on more cast iron in sump applications. That’s sturdy, but in aggressive water it rusts and adds weight without increasing uptime. On the motor side, Myers’ integration with Pentair brings optimized windings and thermal protected designs that handle repeated starts. Efficiency stays high, noise low, and bearings cool.
In practical use, that means fewer clogs, less scale-related drag, and more consistent run amps during storms. Goulds builds capable units, but in homes with high mineral content or mildly acidic water, corrosion creeps up. Over 8–12 years, you’ll notice higher replacement frequency and more maintenance touches.
If your basement livelihood depends on a pump cycling cleanly for a decade or more, the Myers approach pays back. Backed by PSAM’s stocking and support, it’s worth every single penny.
Detailed comparison 2: Budget brands like Wayne and Everbilt entice with lower upfront cost and big-box convenience. On paper, the HP rating looks similar. In the field, the differences show up in bearing quality, switch robustness, and seal design. Myers units maintain flow under load and keep seals intact during frequent starts. Cheaper pumps can suffer from shorter float switch lifespan and noisy checks, pushing homeowners into replacements every 3–5 years.
Install complexity also matters. Myers sump pumps are straightforward to service—unions, accessible checks, and familiar footprints. Budget pumps save dollars day one but often cost more in callbacks and carpet bills. With a 3-year warranty and proven duty cycles, Myers minimizes those hidden costs. For anyone who’s hauled a wet/dry vac up and down stairs at midnight, the premium is worth every single penny.
Detailed comparison 3: Franklin Electric shines in well pump motors, but in residential sump contexts, service paths and parts access can funnel you into narrower dealer networks. Myers’ field serviceable designs—threaded components, commonly available switches, and PSAM’s shelf stock—mean faster turnarounds. When a storm is inbound, the ability to swap a float or check in an hour beats waiting. For homeowners like Miguel and Elena relying on a dry basement to protect HVAC and storage, that flexibility is worth every single penny.
FAQ: Myers Sump Pump Pit Design and System Performance
How do I determine the correct horsepower for my sump and household water demand?
Start with inflow and head. For sump systems, estimate TDH by adding vertical lift (floor to discharge), friction loss (fittings/pipe), and check valve drop—typically 8–15 feet. Measure inflow during peak rain by timing how quickly the water rises in your basin. Most basements with a proper 18–24" basin run well with 1/3–1/2 HP. If you’re moving 40–60 GPM at around 10 feet of head, a 1/2 HP Myers pump is a great fit. For well water supply (a separate application), match HP and stages to depth and GPM rating per the pump curve. As a rule, avoid oversizing; too much HP in a small pit short-cycles. My recommendation: evaluate your drawdown volume, aim for 20–40 second cycles, and choose a Myers model whose curve delivers your target GPM at your real TDH. PSAM can run the numbers with you in minutes.
What GPM does a typical household need, and how do impellers affect pressure?
For sump duty, think drainage, not faucets: you’re evacuating stormwater, not feeding fixtures. Most homes need 30–60 GPM capacity to stay ahead of inflow. Impeller geometry sets how efficiently a pump moves water at a given head. In Myers sump pumps, the hydraulic design keeps the best efficiency point in the range most basements see—8–15 feet TDH. In well pumps, multi-stage impellers build pressure by stacking stages, allowing a deep well pump to hit higher heads. In a sump, we favor robust single-stage geometry optimized for high flow at low head. Practical target: choose the Myers that hits your required GPM at your measured head without pulling more amps than your circuit comfortably supports.
How does the Myers engineering approach achieve high efficiency compared to competitors?
Myers leverages the same engineering discipline seen in the Predator Plus Series for wells: careful hydraulic passage design, tight tolerances, and efficient motors. While sump pumps don’t list “80%+ hydraulic efficiency” like well pumps at BEP, the design goal is similar—maximize flow at expected head while minimizing heat and vibration. Components like engineered composite impellers and thermal overload protection keep motors from cooking during rapid cycling. Compared to economy brands, Myers units hold closer to their published curves in real installs, translating to shorter runtimes per cycle and reduced energy use. In my field tests, a right-sized Myers will clear a 24" x myers sewage pump 30" pit 15–25% faster at equal head than budget units of similar HP.
Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible pumps and related components?
For submersible well pumps, 300 series stainless steel shines—corrosion resistance, strength-to-weight, and stability in mineral-rich or acidic water. In sump systems, while housings vary by model, Myers’ broader portfolio shows a materials philosophy that resists pitting and rust. Cast iron is sturdy, but in wet, oxygenated environments it oxidizes, adds weight, and can trap heat. Stainless components maintain tighter clearances over time—critical to performance. The payoff is longer service intervals and https://www.plumbingsupplyandmore.com/convertible-shallow-or-deep-well-jet-pump-3-4-hp.html more consistent curves. For homeowners facing hard water, iron bacteria, or mild acidity, stainless keeps your investment intact. Bottom line: less corrosion equals steadier performance and longer pump life.
How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?
In Myers’ well pumps, Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers reduce friction and abrasion, letting grit pass with minimal wear. While sump pumps don’t use multi-stage stacks, the same material science informs how Myers builds impellers and wear surfaces. Reduced friction means lower heat, gentler starts, and fewer amperage spikes. For sump pits that occasionally pull fine sand—or biofilm that would otherwise bind—a self-lubricating surface buys you time and keeps performance consistent between cleanings. My recommendation: still manage sediment with an elevated base and good drain tile fabric, but choose a brand with a proven record against abrasion. Myers checks that box.
What makes Pentek-style high-thrust motors more efficient than standard motors in water systems?
In the Pentek XE motor used across Myers’ well products, you get optimized windings, high-thrust bearings, and lightning protection that stabilize performance under heavy load. Efficiency comes from reduced electrical losses and mechanical designs that maintain thrust balance over long runtimes. For sump, the lesson carries over—spec motors that start cleanly, run cool, and tolerate frequent starts. Myers’ integration with Pentair engineering shows up in lower noise, steady amps, and fewer nuisance trips. If you battle frequent storms and long cycles, that motor DNA is the difference between a “maybe” and a confident “yes.”
Can I install a Myers sump pump myself, or do I need a contractor?
Most capable DIYers can install a Myers sump system: cut in the basin, plumb 1-1/2" PVC with a serviceable check valve, wire to a dedicated GFCI-protected circuit, and set floats per spec. Where I recommend a pro: cutting the slab for a new basin, tying in multiple drain tile lines, radon-sealed lids, or complex discharge routing with freeze-proofing. Also, if you’re pairing with a battery backup or integrating alarms, a contractor can ensure code compliance and safe wiring. PSAM stocks complete kits—pump, basin, lid, check, fittings—so you’re not running back and forth mid-install.
What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations, and does it affect sump pumps?
This applies to well systems, not sump. In well pumps, a 2-wire well pump has the start components in the motor; a 3-wire well pump uses an external control box. Sump pumps are typically plug-in 115V units without external control boxes. If your property also uses Myers well pumps—like a Myers shallow well pump, Myers jet pump, or Myers deep well water pump—ask us which configuration fits your depth and service plan. For sump, focus instead on proper float switching, circuit protection, and GPM at your TDH.
How long should I expect a Myers sump pump to last with proper maintenance?
In clean pits with correct cycle times and dedicated circuits, 8–12 years is realistic for a quality Myers sump pump. I’ve seen longer in gentle applications. The factors that shorten life: short-cycling from tiny pits, sediment ingestion, undersized discharge with high backpressure, and poor electrical supply. Quarterly inspections, yearly cleaning, and replacing a tired check valve go a long way. The 3-year warranty provides a safety net for early-life issues; the design aims far beyond that.
What maintenance tasks extend sump pump lifespan, and how often should they be performed?
Quarterly: pour water in the pit and confirm on/off levels, listen for the check valve, verify discharge outside. Clean the intake screen and ensure the float moves freely. Annually: disconnect and inspect the check valve, check gaskets on the sealed lid, verify the dedicated circuit and surge protection. Every 2–3 years: replace the check valve proactively in high-cycle basements. If you run a battery backup, test it monthly and load-test the battery semi-annually. A clean, inspected pit reduces emergency calls dramatically.
How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors, and what does it cover?
Many sump brands offer 1–2 years. Myers steps up with a 3-year warranty covering manufacturing defects and performance issues under normal use. That extra window matters because real failures often appear after a storm season or two. The combination of warranty, UL listed and CSA certified compliance, and PSAM’s stocking makes service straightforward—no mystery parts. Compared to Wayne’s typical 1-year coverage, you’re reducing the risk period by two whole years. That’s measurable value.
What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?
Look beyond sticker price. Budget pumps may cost half up front, but if they average 3–5 years, you’re buying two or three units in a decade, plus risk of water damage and higher energy use from sagging efficiency. A correctly sized Myers often runs 8–12 years. Add in the 3-year warranty, fewer callbacks, and parts availability, and your 10-year spend typically drops 15–35%. For families like the Abuelo-Ramírez, a single Myers plus maintenance beat two budget replacements and saved a basement remodel. That’s the definition of value.
Conclusion: Build the Pit Right, Choose Myers, and Stop Worrying About the Weather
Every flooded basement I’ve seen taught the same lesson: the pit is the stage, and the pump is the star. Get the stage wrong—too small, poorly plumbed, unsealed—and even a great pump struggles. Get it right—a 24" x 30" basin, true 1-1/2" discharge, sealed lid, quiet check, backup power—and a Myers sump pump delivers calm, quiet performance year after year.
For Miguel and Elena Abuelo-Ramírez, that meant redesigning their pit and trusting a Myers solution through PSAM. The payoff: a dry basement, lower humidity, and no midnight shop-vac marathons during storms. That’s what I want for every homeowner and every contractor who calls us for advice.
Ready to spec your system? PSAM stocks the right basins, checks, kits, and Myers pumps—and we ship fast. Call us with your pit dimensions, head estimate, and inflow concerns. We’ll put your system on the right curve and keep your basement dry, no matter what the forecast says.