The basement alarm shrieked at 2:17 a.m., just as a spring thunderstorm dropped a fresh inch in twenty minutes. Power flickered, lights died, and within half an hour the sump pit began to climb—quietly at first, then fast enough to make your stomach drop. When your sump pump stops because the grid goes dark, you’ve got minutes, not hours. That’s where a properly sized battery backup isn’t a luxury—it’s the barrier between a dry basement and a tear-out.
Meet the Montoyas from rural Luzerne County, Pennsylvania. Carlos Montoya (41), a high school math teacher, and his partner, Dana (39), a nurse, bought a 1920 farmhouse with a stone foundation and a dependable private well. Their well is 165 feet with a 3/4 HP system, but their flood risk lives in the basement: a high water table, clay soil, and a 22-inch sump pit that fills relentlessly during storms. After a budget backup failed last year—right when an outage hit—water crested the slab and kissed the bottom stair. Carlos found me the next day. “Rick, we need something that actually covers us.” That’s the right question.
myers submersibleIn this guide, I’ll walk you through the 10 critical factors to properly choose battery backup capacity for your Myers sump pump system—so your primary AC unit and the backup battery stay in lockstep. We’ll calculate GPM under storm surge, size the amp-hour bank correctly, account for inverter efficiency, and cover smart float placement and alarm logic. We’ll also show how the Myers lineup—engineered by Pentair and backed by an industry-leading 3-year warranty—pairs with backup kits that simply work when the street goes dark. If you’re a rural homeowner, a contractor on deadline, or an emergency buyer clicking “ship today,” use this to get it right the first time.
What’s ahead:
- #1: Know your inflow rate during storms #2: Match pump draw to battery amp-hours #3: Choose DC vs AC-inverter backup #4: Runtime targets for real storms #5: Charger amperage and recovery time #6: Float switch strategy and redundancy #7: Wiring, fuse sizing, and cable length losses #8: Dual-pump pits and staged backups #9: Maintenance, testing, and lifespan #10: PSAM “Rick’s Picks” for Myers-backed kits
Along the way I’ll reference the Montoyas’ system, show the math, and compare a couple of competitor approaches. When it’s your basement on the line, right-sizing is worth every single penny.
#1. Measure Real Inflow—Not Guesswork - Establishing GPM and Duty Cycle for Battery Sizing
When backup capacity is unknown, your basement becomes the test bench. Don’t do that. Quantify inflow so your battery backup supports the duty cycle your Myers sump pump will actually see.
Technically, inflow is about gallons per minute entering the pit during peak conditions. Run-time and recovery dictate battery sizing more than label “horsepower.” Your primary AC pump might be a 1/2 HP model moving 60–70 GPM at 10 feet of head; your DC backup often moves less, so you’ll need to plan for longer run times or higher capacity.
For the Montoyas, I had Carlos time pit rises during two storms. Their 22-inch pit rose 8 inches in 3 minutes. That volume equals roughly 16 gallons (π × 0.917 ft radius^2 × 0.667 ft height ≈ 1.76 cu ft ≈ 13.2 gallons; add inflow from perimeter drains and safety margin to land at 16). That’s about 5.3 GPM sustained inflow. Under extreme bursts, it doubled to ~10.6 GPM. Now we’ve got the number that sizes everything else.
How to Time and Convert to GPM
- Watch inches of rise in a known diameter pit for 2–5 minutes. Convert inches to feet and multiply by pit area to get cubic feet; 1 cubic foot = 7.48 gallons. Repeat during multiple storms and take the worst case. Use that as your design GPM, then add 25–50% safety factor.
Duty Cycle and Head Matter
- Head is the vertical lift plus friction loss. A 9–12 foot head is common. Higher head means lower pump output and higher current draw. If your backup pump’s curve shows 35 GPM at 10 feet, but your inflow is 15 GPM, your pump cycles less often—good for runtime.
Key takeaway: document actual inflow, then size with a cushion. Guess small and you’ll flood.
#2. Convert Pump Load to Amp-Hours - Right-Sizing 12V or 24V Battery Banks for Myers Compatibility
Backup systems live or die on amp-hours. You need to translate your pump’s watt draw into a battery bank that delivers your target runtime. Whether you use a DC backup pump or an inverter to run your primary Myers pump on DC, the math is the same: Watts = Volts × Amps; Amp-hours = (Watts × Hours) / Volts, adjusted for efficiency.
Let’s say your DC backup pump draws 9 amps at 12V while running (108 watts). If you need 8 hours of intermittent duty where it runs 30% of the time, your energy requirement is 108 W × 2.4 hours = 259 Wh. At 12V, that’s 259 / 12 ≈ 21.6 Ah. Add 40% headroom for battery aging and cold: ~30 Ah usable.
If you’re driving an AC primary pump via inverter, account for inverter efficiency (85–92%) and higher wattage. A 1/2 HP AC pump can surge above 1000 watts and run at 600–800 watts under load. Even with soft-start inverters, bank size escalates quickly.
For the Montoyas, we chose a dedicated 12V DC backup pump set near 35–40 GPM at 10 feet, drawing 7–9 amps. With a 10.6 GPM worst-case inflow and surge margin, a 100 Ah AGM battery gave them 7–10 hours of real coverage—tested at the pit.
AGM vs Flooded vs Lithium
- AGM: sealed, low maintenance, stable at room temp; common choice. Flooded lead-acid: cheaper, vented, more maintenance. Lithium (LiFePO4): strong cycles and deep discharge, higher upfront cost, needs compatible charger.
Usable Capacity Rule of Thumb
- Lead-acid: don’t count on more than 50% depth of discharge for longevity. Lithium: 70–80% usable regularly without penalty (verify BMS limits).
Key takeaway: do the math against your head and inflow, then round up. Batteries shrink fast in a cold basement.
#3. DC Backup vs AC-Inverter Backup - Choosing the Efficient Path for Your Myers Sump Pump
Selecting between a dedicated DC backup pump and an inverter powering your existing Myers sump pump hinges on surge handling, runtime efficiency, and cost. DC backups are purpose-built for outages: lower amp draw, gentle starts, and no inverter losses. Inverter systems let you run the exact Myers water pump you know—but demand larger batteries and surge-friendly inverters.
A typical 1/3–1/2 HP AC sump pump can draw 6–9 amps at 115V running (690–1035 watts) and 2–3× that on startup. A high-quality pure sine inverter rated 2000–3000W continuous with high surge can handle it, but the battery bank must be stout—often 200–400 Ah at 12V (or 100–200 Ah at 24V) to achieve overnight protection.
For the Montoyas, we used a DC backup to avoid inverter efficiency losses and high surge demand. Their Myers primary AC unit handles the heavy lifting when grid power is on; the DC backup stands guard when it isn’t.
When to Choose DC
- Moderate inflow (under ~15 GPM continuous). Desire for compact batteries and minimal electronics. Simple wiring and fewer points of failure.
When to Choose AC-Inverter
- You need the same output curve as your primary pump during outages (high inflow). Budget supports larger battery banks and a premium pure sine inverter. You value a “no-change” performance profile.
Key takeaway: for most homeowners, a robust DC backup is the right balance of runtime and cost.
#4. Set a Real Runtime Target - 4, 8, or 24 Hours for Your Risk Profile and Weather Patterns
Outages don’t respect your schedule. Target runtime must reflect your grid reliability and storm history. In the Northeast, 4–8 hours covers many blips, but ice storms or wind events can push you past 24. For rural properties, I recommend designing to at least 8 hours at your peak inflow, with the option to parallel a second battery for 16+ hours.
The Montoyas initially aimed for 4 hours. After a spring squall knocked out power for 9, they moved to a 100 Ah AGM and left space for a second. With 30% duty cycle, that’s 7–10 hours of coverage in their actual pit.
Picking a Target
- 4 hours: suburban areas with rare long outages. 8 hours: most rural areas; common sweet spot. 24 hours: high-risk basements, chronic outages, or travel coverage.
Layered Protection
- Add a high-level alarm to your phone (Wi-Fi or cellular). Keep a charged spare battery on a maintainer. Consider a portable generator as tertiary backup.
Key takeaway: pick runtime like you pick insurance—based on risk, not hope.
#5. Charger Output and Recovery - Why 1–2A Trickle Isn’t Enough After a Long Night
Batteries don’t magically refill. A battery backup that carried you through the night needs a charger that gets you back to 100% before the next cell of storms rolls through. Undersized chargers are the hidden failure point.
For lead-acid banks, a good rule is a charger rated at 10% of bank capacity. A 100 Ah AGM likes a 10A smart plumbingsupplyandmore.com charger with temperature compensation. After a 50% discharge, you’ll typically need 6–8 hours to fully recover. Built-in chargers with only 1–2A outputs can take 24+ hours—too slow in active weather.
For the Montoyas, we used a 10A smart charger with float/absorption stages and temp sensor mounted to the battery. Their system recovers from a 40% discharge in roughly 5–6 hours at 60–68°F.
Charger Features that Matter
- Multi-stage charge profile (bulk/absorption/float). Temperature compensation for accurate voltage. Automatic desulfation mode for flooded and AGM (when supported). UL listed and CSA certified equipment for safety.
Don’t Forget Voltage Drop
- Use 10 AWG or thicker for charger-to-battery leads over longer runs. Keep leads as short as practical; secure and strain-relieve.
Key takeaway: match charger amperage to battery size. A starved battery is a short-lived battery.
#6. Smart Float Strategy - Primary and Backup Switch Placement to Avoid Tug-of-War
A well-placed float switch makes your backup water pump reliable; a poorly placed one starts a pump battle. Your Myers sump pump primary should call the shots when grid power is available. The backup float needs to sit slightly higher—engaging only when the primary fails or can’t keep up.
I set the backup float 1.5–2 inches above the primary’s “on” level and make sure the off levels don’t overlap. That way, the backup never runs unless it must. For tethered floats, ensure there’s enough room to swing freely; for vertical floats, keep them clear of the wall and discharge pipe.
Carlos and Dana had a single float and a backup sensor zip-tied to the discharge—a classic snag risk. We replaced it with a rigid mount bracket and independent float rails. No tangles, no nuisance cycling.
Wire Management and Service Loops
- Route float leads along a vertical riser using UV-rated zip ties. Add a drip loop before entering the control box. Label each float with on/off levels and date installed.
High-Water Alarm
- Separate high-water alarm float, set above the backup “on.” Consider Wi-Fi or cellular alerts for peace of mind when traveling.
Key takeaway: floats are simple—until they aren’t. Mount them like a pro and test monthly.
#7. Wire Gauge, Fuses, and Losses - Delivering Full Voltage to Your Backup Pump
DC systems are picky about voltage. Undersized wire causes voltage drop, which drags down pump performance and cuts runtime. From battery to pump, use the shortest run you can and size the cable based on current draw and length. For 12V pumps pulling 8–12A over a 12–20 foot round-trip, 10 AWG is typical; for longer runs, 8 AWG.
Protect the circuit with a properly rated fuse or breaker close to the battery—usually 1.25× the full-load current. If your DC pump draws 10A, a 15A fuse is standard; verify manufacturer specs.
On the Montoya install, we used 8 AWG for a 16-foot round-trip and a 20A marine fuse within 7 inches of the positive terminal. Voltage sag under load dropped from 11.7V at the pump to a sound 12.2V—more runtime, safer wiring.
Connection Quality
- Use tinned copper lugs, crimped with a ratcheting tool and heat-shrink. Clean terminals; apply dielectric grease to reduce corrosion. Secure the battery box with a strap and vent if flooded.
Inverter Feeds (If Used)
- Keep 12V DC runs to inverters extremely short and heavy (4 AWG or thicker). Follow inverter surge and fuse recommendations to the letter.
Key takeaway: voltage you lose in wiring is water you gain on the floor. Build it stout.
#8. Dual Pump Strategy - Staging a Primary Myers AC Pump with a Secondary DC Workhorse
Two pumps in one pit aren’t overkill—they’re smart. Your Myers sump pump on AC handles the workload most days; a second, independent DC unit stands ready for outage or overflow. Staged correctly, you double your safety margin and keep the pit from racing during peak inflow.
I prefer separate check valves and a wye fitting above the pit so each pump discharges independently into a common line. That reduces crossflow and backspin. If your pit is wide (like the Montoyas’ 22-inch), mount pumps on opposite sides to reduce turbulence and float interference.
We installed a Myers primary with a robust curve at 10–12 feet of head, then added a DC backup rated near 35–40 GPM at 10 feet. The backup float sits higher and only activates under failure or demand. During a grid-down test, the DC pump cycled 30% of the time and kept the pit 4 inches below slab. That’s confidence you can hear.
Check Valve Best Practices
- Install a quiet, spring-loaded check valve on each discharge. Add unions for fast service. Confirm flow arrows point up; mark install dates.
Discharge Size and Head
- Use 1-1/2" discharge where possible to reduce friction. Keep vertical lift predictable; minimize elbows.
Key takeaway: redundancy wins. A staged Myers/DC combo turns panic into a shrug.
#9. Maintenance that Matters - Testing, Battery Health, and Real-World Lifespan
Backups fail silently—until they fail loudly. Put maintenance on your calendar and you’ll avoid surprises. Batteries, floats, and check valves are the big three.
Monthly: lift floats, verify each pump runs, and listen for check valve chatter. Quarterly: unplug the primary and let the backup carry a cycle or two. Annually: load-test your battery. Many auto parts stores will test AGM batteries; or use a DC clamp meter to measure current under load. Replace lead-acid batteries at the first sign of swelling, slow recharge, or notable capacity drop after 3–4 years. Lithium will run longer but test just the same.
Carlos tests his floats on the first Saturday each month. It takes five minutes and told him—once—the backup float was sticking. A quick reposition fixed it.
Keep Spares on Hand
- Extra float switch and mounting clamp. Spare check valve and couplings. Fuses sized for your DC circuit. A pre-charged backup battery if you travel often.
Record Keeping
- Tape a service log inside the battery box lid: dates, tests, and any parts replaced. Label charger voltage and setpoints.
Key takeaway: five minutes a month is cheaper than a new carpet.
#10. Rick’s Picks from PSAM - Myers-Ready Backup Kits, Accessories, and Shipping That Saves Basements
As PSAM’s technical advisor, I’ve standardized a short list that pairs cleanly with Myers Pumps and gives homeowners and contractors a straightforward, field-tested path:
- High-output 12V DC backup pump kit with 35–40 GPM at 10 feet, integrated controller, and a 10A smart charger (UL listed). Strong runtime per amp-hour; simple install. 100 Ah AGM battery in a vented, strap-down case. For 8-hour targets in moderate inflow, add a second in parallel. Dual-pump discharge wye with individual spring checks and unions. Faster service, quieter close. Rigid float mounting kit with vertical rails and stainless hardware. Clean separation of primary/backup floats. Wi-Fi high-water alarm with battery backup. Alerts that beat puddles.
Our warehouse ships same day on in-stock items; call us by 3 p.m. and we’ll get your kit moving. Myers’ reputation for reliability, Pentair engineering, and PSAM support on install day—this combo is exactly why contractors put us on speed dial.
Key takeaway: if you want the simple, correct path, call PSAM and ask for Rick’s Picks. We’ll size it right—no guesswork.
Competitor Comparisons That Matter
Compared to some mid-market options, the Myers ecosystem and PSAM-curated backups hit the reliability sweet spot. Take Red Lion backup kits: many use thermoplastic housings and lighter-duty check valves. Under repeated pressure cycles and warm pits, I’ve seen those housings warp just enough to let air creep in, forcing re-prime and shortening effective runtime. Myers-centric builds and our recommended DC kits rely on robust housings, quality seals, and spring checks that close tight—no wheeze, no backspin. In real basements—Montoyas included—that difference means fewer nuisance cycles and more gallons per amp-hour. Over five years, reduced service calls and fewer battery deep-discharges make the Myers/PSAM approach worth every single penny.
Goulds gets the job done in many installs, but their sump accessories often lean on cast components that don’t love acidic water, and their off-the-shelf backup pairings can undersize chargers at 1–2A. After a long outage, those chargers need a day or more to recover a 100 Ah bank. Our go-to 10A smart chargers (temp-compensated, UL listed) refill banks before the next squall line shows up. Add the Myers pedigree—Made in USA quality, a 3-year warranty on core equipment, and Pentair’s R&D—and you’re choosing a system that performs under stress. Lower energy waste, better materials, real support—worth every single penny.
Finally, Wayne backup packages are common at big-box retailers, but the 1-year warranty and basic alarm logic leave homeowners exposed. In the field I’ve replaced more than a few Wayne float assemblies due to sticking or drift after a couple seasons. Myers-oriented builds, paired with higher-grade float rails and independent high-water alarms, stay honest year three, year four, year five. If rural reliability is the requirement, long coverage and serviceable parts drive lifetime cost down—worth every single penny.
FAQ: Expert Answers from the Basement Trenches
1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand? Choosing horsepower in a well system starts with Total Dynamic Head (TDH) and required flow. TDH is the lift from pumping level to pressure tank plus friction losses and pressure switch setting. A typical 3-bedroom home is well served at 8–12 GPM. Match that to the pump curve: for example, a Myers submersible well pump at 1/2 HP may deliver 10 GPM at 120–150 feet of TDH, while a 1 HP will comfortably push the same flow at 200+ feet. For pressure, 40/60 psi switches add roughly 92–138 feet of head. If your water level sits at 120 feet and you want 50 psi, plan near 235–250 feet of TDH. Choose the stages and HP that put operating flow close to the best efficiency point (BEP) on the curve. My field rule: size within 10–20% of BEP for quiet operation and motor longevity. PSAM can run the numbers if you share well depth, static level, drawdown, and target GPM. When in doubt, a 1 HP model with the right staging keeps pressure steady without short-cycling.
2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure? Most single-family homes are well-served at 8–12 GPM. Add irrigation zones or livestock and you may want 15–20 GPM. Multi-stage impellers in a multi-stage pump stack pressure: each stage adds head, allowing a modest motor to achieve high total head. That’s why a Myers deep well pump with 10–15 stages can hold 50–60 psi at the house from 200+ feet. Higher staging also stabilizes flow when the pressure tank calls for 40/60 psi. If you run multiple fixtures—shower, washer, irrigation—the curve at your TDH should stay above your combined flow by a modest margin. In basements, the same principle applies to sump: higher head curves keep discharge strong even with tall lifts and long runs. Pro tip: confirm your discharge size (often 1-1/4" NPT or 1-1/2") and use full-size piping to maintain actual GPM.
3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors? The Predator Plus Series uses precision engineered composite impellers, optimized diffuser geometry, and tight internal clearances supported by 300 series stainless steel bowls and shafts. When operated near BEP, you’ll see 80%+ hydraulic efficiency, which converts more motor watts into water moved. Add the Pentek XE motor—with thermal overload protection and high-thrust bearings—and you get lower amperage at the same head and flow versus many standard motors. In real terms, a properly sized Predator Plus can trim energy use by up to 20% annually compared to a mismatched or lower-efficiency unit. For contractors, that means cooler motors, quieter systems, and longer service life. For homeowners like the Montoyas, it means a smaller electric bill and the confidence that the pump isn’t working on the ragged edge.
4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps? Submerged components battle minerals, acidic pH, and galvanic currents. 300 series stainless steel resists corrosion and pitting far better than cast iron, keeping impeller clearances tight and flow consistent year after year. Corrosion eats efficiency: as surfaces roughen, turbulence rises and GPM drops. Stainless shafts and couplings limit flex and wear on seals. In my experience, stainless bowls and discharge heads stay serviceable for a decade or more where cast iron can show scaling and seize fasteners in just a few seasons. In sum: consistent performance, fewer stuck fasteners, and cleaner water. That’s one reason Myers Pumps hold up so well in tough wells and why I spec them for long-term reliability.
5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage? Grit is like sandpaper on a water pump. Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers reduce friction at the wear ring and diffuser interfaces, minimizing abrasive scoring. When a well produces fine sand during drawdown, standard bearings and impellers can heat and deform; the Myers approach limits heat generation and sheds particles more easily. You’ll see fewer amperage spikes and less performance drift over time. In the field, I’ve autopsied failed pumps with chewed-up impellers after just 3–4 years. The Myers staging holds dimensions better, which means the GPM rating stays close to spec even as the seasons roll on. Less wear equals longer service life.
6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors? The Pentek XE motor pairs high-thrust bearings with optimized windings designed to keep slip and losses down. The result is lower amperage draw at matched head and flow. Built-in lightning protection and thermal protected windings help the motor survive voltage sags, surges, and hard starts. In practical terms, you get stronger startup torque for high stages while running cooler. Cooler motors live longer. On data logs I’ve taken, XE motors consistently run 0.4–0.8 amps lower than commodity motors in the same application. Over 8–15 years, that matters to both your electric bill and your pump’s lifespan.
7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor? You can DIY if you’re comfortable with electrical work, safe lifting, and sealing. You’ll need a pitless adapter, drop pipe, wire splice kit, and proper torque management. However, licensed contractors bring pump curve sizing, insulation resistance testing, and code knowledge to the job. A mis-crimped splice or wrong pressure switch setting can cost you a motor. For many homeowners, PSAM’s contractor network is the smarter path. If you’re determined to DIY, call us for the parts bundle—pump, control gear if required, tank tee, fittings—and I’ll walk you through the checklist. Safety first: 230V hurts, and a dropped pump is an expensive splash.
8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations? A 2-wire well pump has starting components integrated in the motor; wiring is simpler and there’s no external control box. A 3-wire well pump places the start capacitor and relay topside in a control box, which can ease future service but adds parts. Myers offers both, and I recommend 2-wire for most residential replacements under 1 HP for simplicity and lower upfront cost. Larger or deeper wells (1–1.5 HP and up) often benefit from 3-wire for easier diagnostics. Either way, confirm voltage (115V vs 230V) and wire gauge against run length to avoid voltage drop.
9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance? With correct sizing and normal water chemistry, expect 8–15 years. I’ve seen Myers deep well pumps go past 20 with great water and attentive service. Key factors: keep the pressure tank properly precharged to minimize short cycling, protect against lightning, and service the check valve if hammer starts. If your well produces sand, a sediment separator can extend life. Yearly insulation resistance checks (megger testing) spot winding issues early. Myers’ 3-year warranty puts you ahead from day one; most budget brands offer half that.
10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?
- Annually: test pressure tank precharge (usually 2 psi below cut-in), inspect wiring connections, and check for leaks at the tank tee. Every 2–3 years: megger test motor windings; inspect the control box (for 3-wire) for bulged capacitors or heat. After storms: verify system pressure and listen for longer run times that could indicate check valve leakage. Always: correct short cycling; it’s the fastest way to kill a motor. A larger tank or constant pressure solution can help. For sump backups, monthly float tests and yearly battery load tests keep your basement safe.
11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover? Myers offers an industry-leading 3-year warranty on many core pumps, covering manufacturing defects and performance issues. In my experience, claims are straightforward when installs follow spec: correct voltage, proper check valve, and compliant wiring. Competitors like Wayne often provide 1-year coverage, and mid-market lines may cap at 12–18 months. For rural owners who depend on private water, that extra coverage equates to real dollars saved if something goes sideways. Pair it with PSAM’s support—parts on the shelf, phones answered—and your downtime shrinks. It’s not just a number; it’s practical risk reduction.
12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands? On paper, budget pumps save you a few hundred upfront. In reality, you often replace them every 3–5 years. Add labor, a day or two without water, and the creeping energy penalty of lower efficiency. A Myers pump sized to the pump curve and run near BEP can save 10–20% on electricity annually. Over 10 years, a single Myers install typically beats two budget replacements plus higher energy and hassle. For the Montoyas, the math was simple: one Myers-centered solution, a dependable DC backup, and a dryer basement. Fewer emergencies, fewer invoices.
Conclusion: Battery backup isn’t an accessory—it’s your basement insurance policy. Start by measuring real inflow, then size a battery bank and charger that can carry your load without sweating. Stage floats intelligently, wire to minimize voltage drop, and test monthly. Myers Pumps—backed by Pentair engineering, a robust 3-year warranty, and PSAM’s same-day shipping—pair seamlessly with the right backup kit to keep your home dry when the grid taps out. If you want help dialing in amp-hours, charger output, and runtime, call PSAM and ask for Rick. We’ll run the numbers, ship the kit, and make sure your Myers system is worth every single penny.
